Winery day....Ursa vs. The big city

Well.....it has arrived. Our last day. I have to say it's bitter sweet. Overall we timed this trip perfectly. It's been long enough to get away, have a wonderful time, and just be close enough to that feeling of wanting to be home. We ended today feeling 100% satisfied that we did everything we had our hearts set on. To fully experience Italy you would have to move here full time I think. So, on our last day we did one thing that was very important to us.....visit some wineries!







We started off our day with a drive to Montechino, the city 40 min from Montepulciano that is known for their wine, Brunello. We first tried this wine on our night at Poggerino when our British friend busted out a bottle around 12:30 that was obviously quite expensive. It was love at first taste. In Montechino we first spent some time in the town seeing the sites, touring a castle, and seeing a very cool farming/ ww2 museum...very small but cool to see. From there, our goal was to randomly stop for some wine tasting and purchase some Brunello direct from a winery. We first stopped at a cute, but larger winery along the road. This winery had been there for 100s of years.....not unusual for the area. We had a taste but decided to move on....not the quaint winery we were looking for.



After a few turns we turned down the road of another winery, La Fornace, and were met by a lovely Italian woman who came out when we pulled in and started speaking to us in Italian. We could tell enough that she was saying she couldn't speak English and was going to get someone who did. The farm was so pretty, small, with a cute farmhouse, garden, and an amazing view. She yelled down to Fabio ( we like to refer to him as the Italian Dane S.) :) and then took us down a hill(we were following in blind faith at this point as there was nobody else around). She went to open a barn door and inside were tanks of wine fermenting.....yes! We had found the small, friendly winery we had been looking for! Fabio (no joke on the name) took us around their barn that had fermenting tanks, oak barrels, equipment used to prep the grapes after harvest, etc. This farm only has 9 hectares of grapes, average for the region. They had just finished harvest this past Saturday, in only one day. Take note Strubingers.......corn and beans are NOT the way to go! The farm uses labor provided by an outside agency - labor is from Pakistan. He said it's a similar process we use in the states when hiring seasonal workers from Mexico. We had a nice conversation with Fabio learning about growing grapes and making wine. They have made some interesting process improvements over the last couple of years, by hand sorting the grapes they are able to cut passes through the rows down from 3 to only 1. Hand sorting the grapes happens on a piece of machine with a shake table.....just like in our seed plants!




After our lesson in the barn we went into the farm house tasting room. There Fabio (Italian Dane) served us Brunello, Brunello Riserva, Rosso, and Grappa! We also had some bread from his mama for olive oil tasting. To get the bread he just had to yell out the door for mama......in an Italian accent.....LOVE it! We had a really great talk with Fabio and learned alot about growing grapes in the area. The wineries in the region use a coop for the crushing machine which can cost up to 3 million euros to purchase.....this fact would come to life at the next winery we would visit. With such great conversation and great wine, we felt compelled to stock up. With reasonable shipping prices, Fabio will be sending 6 bottles to Lewiston dr in the near future. With that, we were off. We had a drive back to Montepulciano and an appointment at another winery at 4:30. Ciao La Fornace!

Our second winery of the day came with an appointment for the tour. It is just outside of Montepulciano and only 5 min from where we are staying. We drove up and immediately saw it was different from Fabio's world. Again, beautiful scenery and rolling hills with grape vines, but this time with a very modern looking building and landscape. I Cario is the name of the winery and it is a much more commercial establishment. We walked in the front door to what looked like a museum. It was! They have a very fancy place above their wine cellar for at exhibitions. On display at the moment was a collection meant to look like Monet 's Water Lilys but with plastic bags in a river........OK said the non artsy people from St. Louis :). The accountant from the front office took us on a tour. We saw many big fancy tanks for fermenting, a bottling machine, labeling machine, fancy oak barrel room below the art gallery with a glass ceiling. All very fancy to our friends at La Fornace. highlight for the tour,.......after walking past the barrel room.....I walked out to see grapes being harvested!!! Ok.....harvest happens in one day out of the year....how lucky are we! I will post pictures.....so cool! The workers picked out a bunch for us to try....they were very sweet and tasty to my surprise! We watched the berries being pumped to the ferment tanks in awe......it was just the coolest thing to see for wine lovers and ag lovers.....wine being harvested! We moved onto tasting and bought a Montepulciano Noble.....the wine of the area. While it was very cool to see the other end of the spectrum.......our tour just wasn't as charming as out time spent with Fabio :). Interesting fact about this winery......it has only been making wine since 2000. The owners own it as a hobby and have other careers in Rome. People....this is a VERy expensive hobby.....they spared no expense and bought the absolute fanciest everything. The original farm house is still there but is rented out as a villa.....no Italian mama there with fresh baked bread!











We are rounding out our night with dinner at the place we ate at the first night here......such amazing food and service. We leave early to catch a flight at 11:30 from Rome. It's been an amazing trip and we are looking forward to one more night of the food and wine before we make our way home,....it feels complete and I'm ready to see my baby! (Russell)

Ciao,
Mandy




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Location:Montechino, Montepulciano

Absolute Carnage....(in a British accent)

Ahh....what a lovely day. We took it a bit easier today which was so nice. I mean...we are on vacation aren't we?? The title of the blog was inspired partly by our British friend but mostly by the place we had dinner.....we will get to that.




We started off our morning a little later than usual. Breakfast at 9:30. The breakfast here was great! Lots of homemade tarts and goodies. New favorite thing.....little toasts with olive oil sprinkled on....at all times of the day! We are in food heaven. From there we took off to enjoy the city of Montepulciano, leisurely shopping, wine tasting, and taking in the sites. This city has the most steep hills we have seen. Holy cow I am going to have some awesome calves when we get home! We saw some really cool wine cellars that have been here for hundreds of years with big barrels that are still used. The wine here is just so awesome...for lunch we had a cheese platter....another new favorite thing.....aged cheese with nuts and honey..oh man. Like I mentioned earlier, we have located a shop to ship wines from. Even with the exchange rate wine is so much less expensive here....for very good wines! Today we bought a bottle of the wine we had at dinner last night and some olive oil. Bryce learned a bit about olive oil grades...I think we should write this day off as a business expense!




Shopping..so much fun! I have seriously considered getting a leather computer bag but am going to have to pass....wine comes first and the bag would cost $150 euro. We will see if I change my mind tomorrow!




Ok.....dinner. We went to a place on a recommendation from our host. He told us we could do 7:30 or 9:30. We took the first one. When we arrived at the restaurant, people were lined up outside...not something we were used to seeing. The owner was at the door checking names. Nobody was getting in without a reservation. Cool! Our host sent us here for a traditional Florentine steak.....holy cow did he ever. This place was very cool. We were at shared tables and there we're a few strict rules. You only get one glass for water and wine....it's tradition, no split bills, and basically an overall theme of this is what we are, take it or leave it. Dad - pay attention.....you would love this place. From there we see the menu......VERY reasonable prices for everything.....3 euro for a 1/2 liter of wine, 2-3 euro for apps, and 5 for pasta! The one splurge and what they are known for is the steak. You pay by the ounce and it runs around 48 euro. At $2 an ounce....you do the math. Well that was what we came for so we had to do it ( to share) along with bruscetta, cheese with honey, gnocchi, and more bread with olive oil of course! So...as we were waiting for food, you can watch the owner ( who is all over the place ) go back to cut each steak off for those who have ordered one. He then brings the rare cut of meat to your tablet make sure you are ok with it. seriously.......huge....24 ounces! He then takes it back and they throw it into a fiery oven. Then he proceeds to answer the phone, talk to people, serve food, wine, etc. Like I said.....he is all over e place but clearly he is the only one to cut the steaks and bring them for inspection. So we got our food, ate all of it along with 90% of our steak and it was amazing. They never asked us how we wanted it cooked....again...you do what they say, no questions. It was cooked perfect. One more duty of the owner was to come to our table to "bring us the check" . What this amounted to was him writing the price of everything we got on our paper tablecloth and adding it up long hand right there. He did this for everyone. What a great place. They accept reservations at 7:30 and9:30 and essentially move people through in 2 shifts. It seemed incredibly efficient. Everyone there worked their tails off. Very impressive and we loved every minute of it! Here is the website......http://www.acquacheta.eu/











We ended our night here at the B&b with a few rounds of limoncello from our very attentive host....he really is incredible and always looking for ways to help us out and make our stay lovely. Tomorrow we have a day of wineries......we are looking forward to the tour and learning more about the wine making process!




Ciao,
Mandy



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Location:Montepulciano

A drive through Tuscany......

I am still about a day behind in the blog, this entry is for yesterday, Saturday. Yesterday we left the beautiful Poggerino and our English friends for the town of Montepulciano. We planned to see a few towns along the way and arrive at our b and b later in the afternoon.














Our first stop was about an hours drive to the town of San Gimignano. This is a beautiful city with 13 towers around the city and stone walls surrounding the towns center. At one time, the town was said to have up to 72 towers. Here we walked the town for a couple of hours, had some wine, and took some pictures. It really was a beautiful town. From there we moved onto a smaller, less touristy town to have lunch. I was especially excited about this stop.......it was Volterra!!!






Any ideas why I was excited about this town? It's where the head Vampires live of course! Well....in the Twilight novels at least. in the Twilight series this is where Edward had to come and talk with the head vampires to encourage them not to kill Bella, his human girlfriend. They filmed the movie here as well. We took some pictures, had some lunch and were successful in avoiding any vampire attacks! Love it!



From here we headed to Montepulciano. It would be about and hour and a half drive of beautiful country side and rolling hills....with the windy curvy roads we have become accustomed to. We arrived at our B&b very easily...the GPS has been perfect at getting us to our destinations. Our host and his son are very attentive and accommodating. They are always here ready to serve us from the bar or give recommendations immediately. After getting settled in we were off to see the city at night for dinner

We were really looking forward to dinner. The place we went had been recommended to us by three separate people including our host. It had a beautiful view and patio overlooking the valley. We each had a traditional Tuscan menu with 4 courses ending with lime cake which tasted much like key lime pie.....only the best I've ever had. We have been introduced now to the Vino noble of Montepulciano.....the wine of the area. And we love it. Today we scouted out a great wine shop that has reasonable shipping prices.......I see a case shipped to Lewiston drive in the future.



After a good sleep we were ready for a day on Sunday in the town of Montepulciano.....it's time to get serious about shopping :)

We continue to have the time four lives......though I wish Russell was here.....really miss that curly haired mutt! My mom has been showing him pictures of us to make sure he remembers us......something tells me though he has it pretty good right now.......Now off to find Bryce who found a soccer game to watch across the street from our place.

Ciao,
Mandy


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Location:San Gimignano, Volterra, and arrival in Montepulciano

Florence, Illegal pictures, and one amazing night

Phew! What an exhausting couple of days! Our first reaction to Tuscany and Florence seemed to be to do as much as possible! I think for our last few days here we are going to take it a bit easier. We have just checked into our last Bed and Breakfast in Montepulciano. Its another beautiful building with great decor and just the nicest people attending to us. Before we get there....a couple steps back.....

Florence.....in one day can be chaotic, rushed, crowded, and much better with a beer in hand. After our first night at the Poggerino winery we were officially in heaven. If any of our friends come to Tuscany and want to stay in the country I would insist upon them staying at Poggerino. It's nothing short of perfect. breakfast was homemade by the owner with fresh eggs made to order. All of the vegetables came from their garden and it was such a great start to the day in their garden overlooking Tuscany. We decided to take a bus from Greve (30 min drive) to Florence and headed out around 9:30. After the drive and bus ride we arrived in Florence around 11:30. Our first stop was the main square and the Duomo, or Brunelleschi's dome. We have realized since the Colloseum that paying extra to skip the lines is totally worth it.....so we did this again and missed probably 45 min of waiting. So off we went up the hundreds of steps again....to the top of a dome. This dome was the inspiration for the dome at the Vatican....very cool. It's was hot, tiring, but as usual totally worth it at the top. We had a bit of a scare at the walkway around the dome ( inside...think walking around in a circle, looking down at the floor of the church so high up) a guy 5 people in front of us collapsed. He must of had a panic attack, seizure, something. Very scary in such a tight place. After about 10 min he was up and we were moving again. Very surprising he was a young, fit looking guy.

After the excitement of the Duomo we headed of in search of the Mecca......David. Now....an interesting fact...did anyone know that Bryce got an A in Art History at Western??? We are walking around Florence and I'll be honest.....I know little to nothing about art. And here Bryce is.....teaching me all kinds of things...I'm like where did this come from?? Go figure!








Anyway....we found David. The line was shorter than expected and we waited while enjoying a beer (lifesaver) and talking to some nice people from Canada. After talking with them we realized we had just met the Anne Woolard of Canada.....without Norm of course :). At last we were off in search of David. Man oh man did we find him! Who knew that statue was HUGE! It was very incredible. We took some illegal pictures that you can enjoy now :). Bryce got very good at taking pictures illegally...he was angry he didn't break the rules at the Sistine Chapel (like the Canadian Anne Woolard did) and wasn't going to let it happen again. So.....check that off the list....David was awesome. We rounded off our trip to Florence with a walk by the Uffizi to see the long line and then back for some shopping and found the bus home.....we had dinner at the winery at 7 so were rushed to get back.














That night we had planned to join some guests at our b&b for dinner prepared by the owner. This started at 7:30 and we got back to our room at 2 am.......did we have fun? Um......yes. We met some nice people from Chicago and 2 British couples that were nothing less than hysterical. Anyone ever heard of toasty soldiers?? We had the greatest company and such great conversation. The owner made a comment to me the next morning that pretty much summed it up....about the number of wine bottles she found on the table in the morning....I'm pretty sure it outnumbered the number of people! What a great ending to the great day....it was very sad to leave such great people and beautiful scenery......but off to Montepulciano! I'll type about our travels today soon.....we visited several great cities in Tuscany but we are off to dinner now!







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Location:Florence, Radda, and Poggerino Winery

"This ain't Sea World....this is real as it gets"!!

Well, its hard to believe it's possible to beat the beauty of the Amalfi drive but we were there again today. Today we had planned to visit the island of Capri. So.....we got up for breakfast at 8:30, showered and headed down to the port to catch our boat for the short trip to Capri. The boat was pretty sweet. It gave us a good view of the Sorrento port and the full bay of Naples. The title of today's blog is a lyric that came from the SNL song "I'm on a boat.". It seemed fitting.

Once we got to Capri, we went straight to the ticket stations that said Azzuro grotto. Capri's most famous thing to do is to take a row boat inside of this cave. It gets the name blue grotto because light comes up through a crack in the caves floor, illuminating all the water inside the cave. So we were pretty pumped to get to see it. Unfortunately the first thing the ticket booth told was that the blue grotto was closed today due to high tides and wind causing larger wakes than normal. We still took a boat ride all the way around the island and stopped at the white grotto and the green grotto. Both were pretty neat, but were not as cave like as the blue grotto. This trip around the island was amazing. The tour guide was funny and we saw some absolutely incredible scenery. Some of the prettiest sights were around the 3 famous rocks, faraglioni. One of these rocks is in the shape of an arch that you can drive the boat through. We were told by the tour guide that the Italians believe that if lovers kiss under the arch then they will soon be pregnant. We thought....well....when in Rome (or in this case Capri)! ;). All along the boat ride we saw other cool things and many houses owned by famous people. We said ciao to Georgio Armani's villa.





After the boat ride we took tram from the Marina Grande to the town of capri. You can only get there by tram. The town of Capri is the main hub of the small island. We quickly found a small restaurant to have drinks and a sandwich. I tell you what, having a Bellini while sitting Oceanside isn't so bad! From there we walked around a bit and saw some famous shops like the sandal shop where Jackie Kennedy came to buy sandals and the perfume shop where Elizabeth Taylor came for her perfume. They had some lovely perfume made from only scents that come from Capri. I bought an Italian linen scarf and we walked around seeing all the fancy shops I doubt we are allowed in :)

From Capri we hired a taxi to take us up to AnaCapri. This is a smaller town set farther up into the hills of Capri. The cab was awesome...kind of a convertible up the windy coastal roads.



Probably the coolest thing that we did today was take a chair lift to the top of AnaCapri. This was an old lift that is like a ski lift but only has a seat for one. This lift took us to the highest point of Capri where we had panoramic views of the island for some awesome pictures. We sat for awhile, had a beer and enjoyed the scenery.


On our way down to the summit we quickly realized that a boat was leaving in a few short minutes so we husseled down to Capri and then down the tram to the marina. We had a nice nap on the boat ride back and then had a nice last evening in Sorrento with dinner in a garden and then dessert at another small place on a back street. We really loved our time in Sorrento. The town was beautiful and the sites we were able to see were simply amazing. We are off to Tuscany now....bring it on!

Location:Capri, Italy

Tuscano!

Our day started off saying arrivederci to Sorrento and our friends at Casablanca Dominova. We were in the car around 9:30 and quickly found that leaving Sorrento is a very sloooow moving process. Though we seemed to sit in traffic for hours, the jam only cost us 30 min to our full trip which was a little over 6 hours from Sorrento to Tuscany. Thank goodness this will be longest leg of our journey. When we started out Bryce mentioned it would be as long as our usual commute to Madison...that put things in perspective. Luckily the front and tail ends of this trip had some beautiful sites to see which made the time go along nicely. Not to say seeing the Woolard's isn't Something to look forward to. (Norm from cheers!) :)

As we came closer to our bed and breakfast, the Poggerino we were little worried we wouldn't find it. We were only following directions I printed off from our hosts...GPS couldn't locate our destination.....which is a good thing :). When we arrived we were NOT disappointed. Our B&b is a vineyard, winery, and makes their own Chianti wine and olive oil. Our check in area was the tasting room...niiiiice. After sampling a few of the wines (chianti reserve, chianti Classico, and merlot) we were off to see the property. We are staying in a building that is 500-600 years old with parts that may be up to 800 years old. It sits on 100 acres with 24 acres of vineyard. Our room overlooks a beautiful view of a Tuscan valley. There is a pool and several places to relax in lounge chairs and read or have a glass of wine. In a small reception room they have several bottles of wine sitting out. If we want one we write our names on a small piece of paper and leave it there. Basically to sum it up.....this is Bryce and Mandy heaven.




We have decided that though we LOVED the Campania region.....this is where we would choose to live permanently. It's country, relaxed, agriculture, and very us :). I mean people get stuck behind tractors here.....I even saw some John Deere green! Bryce and I have tried coming up with dream jobs in the past and we always end up saying we just would rather not work. Within 5 min of being here he had decided this was his dream job. Owning and working a winery in Tuscany.









After enjoying the property a bit we headed off to the village of Radda which you can see from our room. Very cute medieval village with a stone wall around it...which is pretty much par for the course here. We enjoyed the city for a bit and then headed off to the small-town we had dinner in Volpaia at La Botega......absolutely wonderful food and the most beautiful scenery yet! We sat on a terrace overlooking the valley.



Tomorrow we will wake up to breakfast by Bernadette, one of the owners and then head for a day in Florence. Tomorrow night Bernadette will cook dinner for us here at the B@B. We are really excited for that!

Until then....
ciao!
Mandy

Ps......wi-fi not too reliable here......posts may be a bit more spread apart.


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Location:Chianti region, Tuscany

"Stanley Burke always told me you don't need a plan to get things done"

After over 8 years together I have finally started to let Bryce's desire to "go with the flow" set the direction for our vacations. After today...I'm convinced it's starting to pay off. Last night we talked with a tourism office who told us it would be 100 euro for an all day Amalfi Coast tour. We walked out and Bryce stated that we would be driving the Amalfi coast ourselves. I thought for about 5 seconds and quickly said ok...if he wanted to risk our lives on the windy roads and steep cliffs why should I argue?

We woke up to a rainy morning, had leisurely breakfast in our room and took our time getting ready. We were on our own time after all! The rain cleared up into an absolutely beautiful clear morning and we were off with "the baby" (that's our camera if you will remember which may actually be better practice than Russel is!). We found the car, plugged in the GPS and we were off. Quickly we realized the gPS didn't want us to go the long way around the coast so we turned off the directional advice and just used the map feature.

All along our 8 hour excursion we spent our time making hair pin turns, dodging mopeds, stopping along the side of cliffs for pictures, stopping in small towns for lunch and or drinks, and seeing the most gorgeous scenes of coast line that either of us have EVER seen. People....this day was amazing and to tell you about it in this blog will not do it justice. The pictures here aren't even close to enough at giving you the real picture. If you are able to make it to Italia some day, you must come to the Campania region and drive yourselves around the Amalfi Coast......it's that good and you would never get the true experience on a tour bus...my husband is a rockstar for getting us out alive. I think Italian tour guides might be in his future. A few of the highlights.....


- a stop in a very small town called Termini. We stopped for a picture but saw a little limoncello factory hidden away. The sign for free samples drew us in. This is where our limoncello purchase took place.

- again, a stop for a picture took us to a very fancy hotel built in the cliffs....after being worried we would get kicked out, we very nicely asked if we could buy a beer and sit on the amazing terrace even though we clearly did not belong. Of course they were happy to have us so we had a nice break enjoying the sun and the ocean.

- next....we were hungry! We stopped in the lovely town of Praiano. After a bit of a hike from where we had to park, we stopped at a nice pizzeria overlooking the ocean and a lovely church. Ok.....best pizza, risotto, and sparkling wine yet. And we even topped it off with a complimentary shot of limoncello! Such a fun town!


- after a few more picture stops we were into Positano which is a bigger town on the drive. lots of cars and very busy....we continued our drive towards Amalfi.

- Amalfi! SUCH a beautiful city! We did a bit of shopping and walked out on the pier for pictures....the picture below is the reason Sony invented their panoramic picture feature...amazing!







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Location:Italy, Campania region....Amalfi Coast drive!!

Rental car experience

Today started out just fine. We woke up at 7:00 and had nice breakfast and then headed to the airport. We took the train to Rome's central station (Termini). All things are good at this point. We then had to get another train to get to the airport to get the rental car. The train ended up being late which put us about 45 minutes after the pickup time. We then had to wait about 1.5 hours for the rental car company to get us pushed through the line. So we started off the day quite a ways behind schedule. Now the fun begins.... My first time driving anywhere outside of the United States was today. I would say the beginning was a little Harry. To start things off it was the first time I had drove a manual transmission since high school. I learned that it was just like riding a bike though, I picked it up no problem. What I was not ready for was the 19 roundabouts that I needed to go through just to get out of the airport. All I could think about was Clark W Griswold on European vacation (Big Bend... Parliament). Except for us it was..arriving flights.....rental cars.....departing flights..... Every street is twelve words long and by the time you found the right one it was too late. We eventually gave up on the street signs as very rarely were they accurate. Following the "highlighted" route turned out to be the better option.



We finally got out of the airport area and then had two hours of 81 mph (speed limit) fun from Rome all the way to Naples. Not sure how fun it was, the rental car now known as "El Lancia" did not have cruise and beeped at me every time I hit 81 mph, waking Mandy up in the process. Once we got to Naples was when the real fun begins. I read that Naples was the worst driving city in the world. I thought it seemed odd when I read that the first time, but after experiencing it, that book was spot on. I got to witness my first car passing another car IN THE SAME LANE!! I got honked at about every 3 minutes for driving the speed limit. We eventually got past naples and stumbled our way into a great little coastal town. No idea what the town was called. The problem was that it was right in the middle of town. The roads were not roads they were alleys. I eventually had to give up on looking out for the vespa's as they were flying at or near me from every direction. It was at this point that I was very happy to be driving my little 2.5 cylinder El Lancia, because I had about 4 times where I had to "get skinny" to get through the streets. We then got to meander our way through the cliffs and eventually wound up in Sorrento. Sorrento is shoppers haven. Every little boutique shop imaginable is here. The garmin told me take a right on the street that our b&b is on and I couldn't help but laugh. The street was literally 6 feet wide with wall to wall people and shops set up. I would have run over somebody for sure. Eventually we made it to the b&b and now that we are settled in life is good. Of course we immediately had to down a Litre of bier each to ease the nerves from our action packed journey..


The city itself is beautiful. We are 1 block from the cliff that over looks the ocean. They have a path that is carved into the cliff that allows you to walk down to the ocean level. We experienced our first Limone cello today. It is the famous drink of the Amalfi coast. It has to age for about a month and consists of lemon peels, sugar, and a strong dousing of Everclear!! Mandy did not realize it had Everclear in it until after she took a drink. I am pretty sure the drink has an octane rating of 86, but other than that it was good. Tomorrow we are geared up for some more driving. It will be the the famous Amalfi drive for us. And of course, we will take lots of pictures with the camera now known as "the child".

The last two pictures are either from our room or right outside our room. Lovely B&b with a nice family that owns it and a pizzeria down the street.

Ciao,
Bryce



















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Location:Rome-Sorrento